I think you have several issues here and your starting issues looks to be related to fuel because if we judge by lambda its lean during cranking and the engine needs way more fuel especialy on cold.
Fuel table, on Idle your VE should be around 40-50% assuming the engine data was filled in correctly including the fuel injector size and dead times.
The Injector phase start from a 380 degree value and then tune from there.
If the above will not help enough start adding cranking fuel for the clt temp you are in.
100 thanks for your answer, and you are right, my starting issue is more related to fueling.
But, my main concern is about cranking trigger resolution. I checked the trigger with ign angle lock during the first start (when it was actually starting).
I started with 12+1 teeth, Teeth num 10 and 40° angle. Then, after check and calculation, it was teeth num 7 and 102° angle.
Agree that the cranking fueling is not perfect. Inj dead time took from wizard (+/- correct).
What I don’t understand is why the RPM goes from 600 (ready to idle) to 0 and so on the sync is lost … Wiring seems fine.
Not sure about the trigger setup (Pull Up, filter etc), but tried multiple mix
When the RPM drops to 0, you can sometimes see the “Unexpected missing tooth” error.
This error can be generated by any incorrect signal on the crank or cam.
It could be missing, or there may be an additional edge on the crank or cam generated by noise.
Is this OEM trigger setup, or aftermarket?
Are both sensors 3-pin Hall effect?
Try setting the maximum filter for both crank and cam.
Hall sensors require pull up resistor.
Pull up 1k or 820R is ok.
I don’t know what you mean by resolution.
But changing the edge can help with correct decoding.
Remember that any change in the trigger can affect the actual ignition angle, so when you finalize the trigger settings, you should perform a final check with a timing light.
Hi, OEM crank trigger wheel setup is a bit problematic when starting for EMU.
I advise you to modify the original wheel from 12+1 to 12-2 (just cut 2 teeth off), i’m doing it to all k-series that i touch lately. It solves the low battery cranking trigger losses. But first of all remember to always do the basics, check timing and all the setting 2 times before even trying to start a fresh engine.
Since you seems to know these engine, may I ask you how you wire the 3-Hall sensors ?
I used the same 12v as the one I used to wire the 12V (pin 13 on black con) on EMUB (wire coming from a relay) - 18AWG gauge
Maybe this setup is not reliable.
Also, your information make sense because I was this close to modify the trig wheel also.
Best practice is to use shielded cables for those sensors and knock sensor. Where you going to take 12V from is not that important, only make sure it’s stable voltage for all main components of the harness, for the rest just follow the manual.
With a park battery SuperB, the engine starts a lot better !
Without park battery, I find sometimes “Unexpected Missing tooth” … Still, even with quite good engine setting on EMU.
We were at the dyno last friday, the engine runs perfectly (even at high rev 9500).
240hp with OEM camshaft and 12.5 comp piston.
I was asking myself if the OEM trigger is really good for reading at “very” low cranking (175RPM).
I drawn a 24-2 trigger wheel for K20 crankshaft.
And I will test it.
Maybe its not relevant because its Emu Pro but here is my K24 on cold start after sitting for a few weeks. On hot start its faster and its Stock K series 12+1 trigger wheel.
)
close to modify the trig wheel also.
