I have just installed the Black ECU on my E30 318is and RHD IBTs. I also used a base map for this setup, but from the EMU classic.
Car runs well, except idle. Can’t get it to drop below around 1900rpm (unless I disable idle control, which makes me think ICV itself is working fine). I just wanted to see if there was anything wrong with my settings?
If it looks fine… I will look at timing. I just assumed the base map should have that fairly close.
I took everything off (all new piping etc. when I installed the throttle bodies) and checked/tightened/resealed each connection… still the same result. I am not ruling out vacuum issue, but I tried to troubleshoot that possibility with my limited knowledge.
After putting things back together… I got a piece of tube and a funnel as an earpiece to try any find vacuum leak (has worked well for me in the past)… and can now find nothing.
If I remove the IACV pipe, that feeds directly to the vacuum block (from ITB kit), and manually operated it… I.E. I block with my thumb, I can manipulate the idle perfectly and when fully blocked, the engine stalls immediately.
If I disable Idle control in the software, it’s almost the same result … it can nearly run, but fairly quickly stalls out (I assume the IACV almost, but not fully closes, with 0 voltage signal).
I don’t really expect anyone to really be able to help with this info… But I am booked to get the car tuned and really don’t want to waste dyno time messing with this stuff
ITBs must be mechanically calibrated well enough to keep the engine running at idle. Synchronization between the throttles is also very important for smoth idle operation. The idle valve should only assist the system when necessary; only idle valfe is not strong enouht to keep idle stable
That makes sense and I didn’t realise.
I did balance the ITBs (and double/teiple checked since), so I knew that was fine, but I had the idle screw stop set, at full closed throttle (I read that in the install instructions, but they mustn’t consider idiots like me )… thinking the idle control valve took care of that job!
Nah… not solved.
I’m stuck at the moment
I had balanced the throttles (first row of pics)…
but this arvo, I whipped off the plenum and checked the balance and it’s all over the shop (second row of pics).
Somehow cylinder 1 is higher than 2 now, even though they are on the same shaft (does that point to a vacuum issue on cylinder 1? or am I missing something?). 3 and four are at least matched, but slightly lower than 2 now.
ICV is definitely working, and if I block the inlet to the IAC it stalls almost immediately.
I can’t hear any vacuum leaks with the old funnel and tube, and the car seems to rev cleanly and run pretty well outside of due control (given is a base map tune)… but idle basically wont drop below 2k and is pretty lumpy. Still runs on sometimes after switching the ignition off.
I’m just feeling a bit dumb and frustrated at the moment
think you need to go back to basics and physically check and set the throttles again.
Usually u have the manifold on a table with a back light and check each individual throttle plate position\gap.
Set all to be either closed or maybe a 1mm gap. then make sure the the throttle stop allows the shaft to rotate so all throttle plates move in sync and maintains the same gap.
When happy, reinstall the manifold and get it running/idling without the idle stabiliser connected .
if its happy and you can get it to be constant idle and vacum between cylinders then you can connect the idle stabiliser and adjust the the throttle stop to suite.
unfortunately its trial and error sometimes.
)… thinking the idle control valve took care of that job!
