Trigger selection, and idle valve conection

First of all, I’m new here, greetings everyone. =)

I am making a converter harness from ecumaster classic to 1994 Nissan Micra K11, I practically have everything connected and working.
but I have a couple of doubts.

The car uses a dizzy with an optical sensor, which reads a disk with 4 elongated slots, and a small fixed point.

I’m trying to figure out which trigger I should use for a basemap, I don’t want to overwhelm my programmer, so I try to leave everything as good as possible and give him as much information as possible to make his job easier later.

What trigger should I select? Or how can I try until I find the right trigger?
And how do I know what the appropriate trigger is?

As for the idle valve, it is rotary with two air passages, the valve has a cover that rotates clockwise and counterclockwise, to open and close, allowing more or less air to pass through.
According to the original wiring, only two cables reach the original ECU, what connection should I make, one to stepper motor 1 winding a and another to steper motor 2 winding a? or one to A and another to B??

Let’s see if you can help me, thank you very much =)

Optical sensor Signal readed with scope

The scope image you posted here is from LInk Forums.
is this also your trigger ?

Or is it like this ?

Yes mate, this is the dizzy.
A colleague gave me the photo, I guess I did get it from the link forum yes

Its same from first photo

UP! Anyone knows?

would someone know how to help me?


HI On Black you need cam toothed wheel wit additional tooth and 2 teeth per crank rev

I Will to use original electronic dizzy system…

This is an odd pattern, its essentially a 4 tooth wheel with an extra tooth for home sync. This is not much resolution for the ECU to work with and I do not recommend using it.
Now if you do insist on using it you’re going to select “CAM Toothed wheel with an additional tooth”, select 4 teeth and take a scope log and see if the ECU will synchronize. Update to the latest firmware (2.169).

As for the idle stepper, yes that will work connected on the h bridge 1A and 1B.

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Thank you very much mate🙏. I will resume the project next week and tell you.

Some friends used this configuration with a MaxECU, and with OEM exhaust manifolds, they managed to obtain 110 hp.


Sounds good.

Not saying it can’t work, but its risky. Ignition timing just isn’t very accurate. Technology has improved since the release of that vehicle, and OEM’s don’t use trigger systems like that anymore

thanks mate!
I’ll try it these days.
I connect the optical sensor to the Primary trigger of the ecumaster, should I change it to the cam sensor?

Perhaps in the future, the car will evolve to a coil system with a 36-1 wheel on the crankshaft

which would bring another evolution to Itbs :joy:

but today I want to test the car with this configuration😎

I think can use aem cas disk for more igntion resolution.

I leave a photo of the disk in question, I know it wouldn’t be a big deal but something would increase the resolution, right?

This disk is used in sr20 engines to increase resolution


As far as I can tell in that photo of your sensor it only have 1 optical pick up.
The AEM discs are meant for the RB and SR cas that have dual pick ups.

And keep it wired to the primary trigger

thanks FloortGarage =)

connect the idle valve cables.´
4.2 wideband, iat sensor and clutch sensor for launch control and flat shift.
The latter is connected to the cam2 port, as ecumaster suggests.
but I didn’t have time to connect the control unit to the car and verify that everything was correct.

A new doubt arose with one last cable,
From the original ECU a cable comes out on pin 1 that goes to an NPN power transistor, the base output of the transistor is pin 1 of the ECU.
The collector connects to the ignition coil, and the emitter returns to engine ground.

Would it be correct to connect pin one of the ecu to +12v? Or should I give it another output from the ecumaster? attached image.

Someone knows?

Had to brush up on transistors lol, I don’t its needed for EMU classic
Seems like it just tells the stock ecu about a spark event, I don’t know what it does with that info aside from confirm it fired the coil or something.

I didn’t understand it either, I saw that two cables went to the 12v coil on one side and on the other they went to the ECU passing through a resistor.
I don’t know what he uses it for either. :sweat_smile:
I thought it would be to avoid burning the original ecu.

Thanks mate :pray:

I will post progress little by little