RB25DET
NZWiring Trigger Kit
EMU Black PnP Adapter
About to have the first start. Im scoping the trigger before syncing the timing and I am getting nothing on secondary trigger. What would cause that? That reads off the NZWiring trigger no? I’m running the emu black pnp adapter, wiring specialties oem engine harness.
Attached a pic of trigger settings as well as a screenshot of the log, not sure how to attach it here. The kit is a 24-1 toothed wheel with vr sensor. Shouldn’t the settings be 24 for number of teeth?
If my memory serves me its a single VR sensor, it only uses the primary trigger input.
Remove the pull down resistor, that isn’t used for VR sensors.
Check air gap, that was really important with this kit.
These were my trigger settings (for a classic, but same enough) the last kit I did on Ecumaster.
I’d agree with you in theory, but seeing as it’s 12 teeth per crankshaft revolution I believe this worked.
Your scope log shouldn’t have those dots in it, that’s for an unexpected missing tooth. There should be a gap and then one trigger like that, the rest straight lines.
that log is without that pulldown resistor. I have the kit setup with the top cover plate, bolted right to it with no shim, rubber cas gasket removed completely. Ill pull the top cover off and fit the sensor and check the gap later today. I was going off these settings and the log was showing secondary so I figured Id see it too.
Sensor was very close to the wheel. Yelsha D recommends 1.3mm gap, fixed that. Was still getting errors and then switched to rising trigger edge and it cleared up and was showing secondary finally. Car just cranks and will not start, was able to sync the timing with a light tho. Was getting erratic strobe on the light, but was able to get it going enough to set timing. Test output on coil 1 gun works perfect. Maybe its really out 180 degrees? Im going to pull the top timing cover and check the cam marks while cranking. Tuner said engine wasn’t pulling much vacuum while cranking and he also thinks its out 180 degrees and is going to change the trigger settings to the NZWiring above and check. Block is fresh from the machine shop, cylinder hone, new pistons, valves were all cleaned up and lapped, oem cams. Dont think it has anything to do with that, unless I have a massive intake leak im not seeing. Built in map sensor seems to be working fine, removed the line off the manifold, blew into it and sucked and the pressure changes like it should, I was able to suck more of a vacuum than the engine was producing, line is fine.
Yelsha D kit is exact same to NZWiring but the wheel is different. It has individually cut out teeth whereas the NZ wiring has the teeth raised on a solid wheel, no cut out between the teeth.
ok so the additional context is pretty important, even though they are pretty similar.
According to the Yesha instructions and NZ wiring, neither kit use secondary triggers. Thinking you might have a wiring error, perhaps both wires from the sensor are connected to trigger 1 and 2 inputs or something.
Really a VR sensor should be connected to a trigger input and sensor ground, not chassis ground (can’t recall where the CAS grounds to, possibly depends on where your RB25 harness came from, don’t know what Wiring Specialties does there)
If the sensor is too close to the wheel it can false trigger, rising edge is never my preference. Falling edge usually more stable, however changing between the two will require retiming
an output test is good for checking the output, ignition coil and timing light work. Does not tell you if the engines timed correctly, or if the ecu’s seeing a stable synchronized state.
180 out is pretty easy to test, make the ignition outputs this:
(you can also use an output offset, but this puts it in wastespark which eliminates 180* out being a potential)
If it’s a fresh build, break in is super important. The less run time before it can be broken in the better. vacuum value may get better ones the rings have bedded in, I wouldn’t thing about that yet. most engines only drop like 10-15 kPa under cranking, not sure what you’re seeing.
Post a log and tune file of a start attempt, scope log with the settings the same as when the log was taken.
Going off the fsm diagram and the instructions, black wire is going to primary trigger (Pnp Adapter) and white wire is going to ground. Following FSM diagram it looks like that ground runs into a junction and then terminates to ecu ground/ignition grounds and to chassis. WS confirms CAS is grounded to chassis. I can trace it back and switch it to sensor ground if the issues persist
I was getting a scope that looked exactly like the NZwiring ecumaster instructions I included above, single secondary line lining up with primary
Sensor ground would be a cleaner signal.
secondary lining up with primary is bad, and you’ll notice that in both instructions the secondary (trigger 2 in Link) trigger is disable/not in use. No need to focus on having it present as its probably just induced voltage from the primary, as the secondary trigger shouldn’t be connected to anything right now
Secondary Trigger is connected to nothing. That’s what’s been confusing me, I’ll just pay no attention to it
Had to change trigger edge to rising and everything worked perfect. Scope showed both primary and secondary and looked exactly like the scope above from ECUMaster drive. Finally got the car started
