I do not think that it is possible to wire this the way that you have it. I could be wrong so I will leave that for someone else to weigh in on.
When I say that the ECM doesn’t know where the throttle is at, what I am saying is that just because you are seeing voltage that correlates to what you think the voltage should be doesn’t mean that the butterfly is where the ECM thinks it should be.
The wizard is supposed to validate this for you but it can be wrong. Especially if your pedal is not configured correctly which I still can’t find in your log.
Yes, before the final problem, I had the feeling that at some points the dbw did not open completely, and then it became like now, it just started closing, but before that everything was fine for a long period. To better see the problem, you can look at timing 7.17, where you can clearly see the pedal, throttle, and the drop in revs
Where do you have the pedal input?
Is it one of the analog inputs?
RAV4/ Camry xv70
Analog input 4 dbw pos sensor
That’s not how this works
You got me again. B4 and Analog 4.
Where is the calibration for the pedal in your config?
I have looked the pedal up for this vehicle and found the following:
This image is from the information on that page:
After looking at the log with this information and the data you gave, I think that you should look at the wiring for the pedal as well.
I’m pretty sure that you can only use the circuit labeled VTA1. To find that, you will have to have better info or go stick a meter in there and check the resistance.
But the correlation circuit will only be good to read until 3/4 of the range that you will need it. That may be okay if you’re going WOT after 60% every time I suppose.
Using VTA1, your idle voltage should be 0.69 (I think) and WOT would be ~3.5 or so.
It is worth pointing out that the EMU Pro has a calibration table for the pedal that you could configure using an oscilloscope to gather the correlation data and that would allow you to use both circuits as designed by Toyota.
It may be worth your time to see if the newer firmware for the Black allows for a calibration table because I do not see one.
Thanks, I was already thinking about checking the wiring from the pedal to the ECU, and I also had a thought about air, at some point it leaks (but I did a pressure test and the intake system is 101% ok), but I suspect that the wastegate may in the open position at the moment of cutoff
because he maybe old almost 10 years and also the fact that I made several runs without cooling the wastegate and then It turned out that a problem arose when I updated the firmware from 138 to 175, so it’s either a firmware issue, a setup issue, or a wastegate issue.
Thank you for answers! I found the problem, wastegate leaks air through the valve, diaphragm, and body. He died brave, in a fire after 10 years of hard work.