Hi everyone, I really need help. I don’t understand where to look or what to do. There’s a separate harness for the throttle, it’s intact, the lithium battery is fine, and the ground to the body and engine is new. The problem is that the throttle doesn’t let me rev up to the redline. If I hold the rev limiter at 7000 rpm, everything is fine. If I reach 7200 rpm, the redline should be there, but no, it just drops the revs and holds at 4-5000 rpm and doesn’t let me rev up, just hold and slowly rise like 4500-4550-4600. I even experimented with setting the redline at 6000 rpm, and it’s exactly the same. If I’m driving straight, the redline works fine. If I’m standing still, the redline works fine. If I’m going sideways or drifting, the redline doesn’t work.
Ecu black, 2.175 , engine - Jz gte non vvti
Idk how to add by phone my.log file, I’ve uploaded to dropme, if need my firmware I can do that too
I drove everything fine for two whole years, but now this has happened and I don’t know where to look anymore. I bought a new throttle body - it didn’t help.
the pedal was full 100%, I didn’t let go of it
Hola
Can u share a log?…Is DBW not reaching its target position?
Some time ago i had a similar issue…there the throttle couldnt reach its target position randomly. I then improved my grounding and the issue was gone.
Hi im create new account becaus i forgot my pass… and create new topic..
so what i change - updated wiring millspec, dbw ground - to sens ground, change pedal, dbw and ecu.. and all of that doesnt help me -_-
20260425_1535.emublog (2.2 MB) timezome 3mid and 7.10-7.20
666666.emub (146.5 KB)and my frimware
I don’t see the CLT temp on your logs but the IAT is heat soaking right before you are unable to rev the engine if I’m seeing this right.
I think you should log the pedal if you can and the CLT to help better constrain the problem.
But you do have CLT protection enabled 105°C for high temp limit. This will stop you from revving past 5,000 RPM.
In log file, there is a CLT, it is stable at 80-85 degrees, that’s how my PWM is configured, If off the sensor, it will follow the 60 degree configuration.
Edit:// Removed unnecessary mistake on my part.
On any graph you can add clt or another’s parameters
Okay. I use the EMU Pro. It is a little different. I see it now in your log
Yes, I saw that everything already looks like version 3. I was already thinking about upgrading from v2 to V3, maybe that would help… because I think the problem probably appeared due to the firmware update from 2.16x to 2.175.
And for complete information, I tried changing the throttle, pedal, new Milspec wiring, installed a different Black ECU, none of which helped, the ground sensor on the DBW and a separate pedal, a new ground for the engine and body, the voltage is stable
What are you using for throttle position sensor?
Bosch 0280750473 and pedal Toyota RAV4/xv70
Okay. I took another look at the log. Check out the AFR when you are unable to rev the engine.
I see the AFR is ~12 when you first hit the throttle. About the same the second time. The third time, it looks like it is 15 which is probably way too lean (because it is warm) and then it just gets worse at each blip of the throttle.
I am pretty sure that you need to take another look at your wiring. That DBW throttle is supposed to be connected to an H-Bridge, sensor ground, sensor power and then two of your analog inputs.
It is very similar to the OEM Volvo DBW TB that I have on my 3L XC90 BTW. I have mine working but may need to adjust the deadband a little I think. When I play with it, I can stop the humming at idle with the engine off. For now, I just have the option for it to be disabled with no RPM enabled.
edit:// depending on how you have the DBW TB wired already, you may just need to move the wiring in the configuration and not on the vehicle. One of those TPS circuits is going to be moving from 0-5v and the other going from 5-0v as you move the throttle.
Here is the data sheet in case you don’t have it:
After you correct that, you should change the following in your DBW config:
(Thank you to Nuke Performance for providing the datasheet this time.)
You may also have to enable the virtual TPS under “Sensors setup → TPS”. I don’t know about that though because this is not required on the Pro AFAIK
Thanks for the info. Yes, ideally, I need to connect a second channel that will function as an inverter, but all my ECU outputs are full. The throttle can work without an additional channel, so it’s a backup channel. I don’t think that’s the problem. You can look at the 3rd minute and 7:10-7:20 in the log file. There’s a moment where the Tps is 100% but the bdw closing. The some times is due to me pedaling at some point, but with the pedal fully in the cut off, its logical that afr would go to 15.
