Engine dont starting

I’m having trouble getting the engine to start. I’ve set cylinder 1 to TDC, removed the VR sensor, and from there I’m counting the teeth until I reach the missing ones. There are 44 on a 60-2 gear. I’ve configured my trigger, set the lock to 0, and the signal is exactly where I have the pulley marked, which is my TDC. I remove the block from 0, but it won’t start.

I have a Volvo S40 B4204T engine. Coils 1 and 4 are together but don’t have an amplifier; they work with a 220uF filter. Coils 2 and 3 are together.

I have the timing right, but it won’t start.

Can anyone help me?

mini volvo.emub (146.1 KB)

if u sure that timing is correct then u need to paly with cranking fuel. It looks like default in ur project. Cant work like that. Also ur idle ref makes no sense…even if it starts, strange things will happen.

you need to swap trigger ± wires on your crank sensor, I can see that polarity is wrong in the trigger log.

Thanks for the help. Now it tries to start; it backfires but never reaches idle. It only starts with the starter motor.

I reversed the polarity, and now the crankshaft position sensor is clearer.

But for it to backfire and try to start, I have 98 fuel in the fuel line, from 0% TPS at 1000 RPM.

Have you checked the timing with a Timing Light yet?

Sorry for the basic question but you havnt mentioned it.

Also your understanding of the triggering may not be complete.

Computer looks for the missing teeth as the home (reset) point for its calculation.

When it sees the missing teeth gap it will begin counting from ‘0’ to whichever is your trigger tooth, and then calculate where TDC is based on your Trigger Angle.

You need to use a Timing Light to verify these numbers.

Soz. I was use light lamp. And it’s correct position,after dissable unlock 0.

Since I don’t know what changes you have made to the configuration shared above:

  1. Add a Prime Pulse in Engine Start - Prime Pulse, maybe about 10ms to test.
  2. The VE table is very rich in the idle range. You need to fix this if you haven’t already. Start with 40% and work from there to fine tune it.
  3. The Charge Temp table should not be ‘0’ everywhere. This will cause you lots of headaches trying to get fuelling right at different operating conditions. Spend some time reading all the posts about this from other community members.

Now it tries to start, it keeps backfiring, goes up to 700-800 rpm and dies.

mini volvo v3.emub3 (65.2 KB)

I’m confident that you are drowning this engine with too much Cranking, Afterstart, and Warmup Fuel.

It would be interesting to know what ambient air temperature you’re working with here.

There are several important fuel tables with no values or extreme values.

VE1 is going to give very unstable fuel delivery at idle the way you have it populated, I think in Alpha-N this could be even worse than in a Speed Density car.

Lambda Target 1 incomplete.

Warmup 1 is going to remain active at all times the way it is populated.

Cranking TPS correction will dramatically affect your injector pw the way it is set up if you touch the throttle during start up. Remember that a well tuned EFI engine never needs throttle inputs at start up.

I haven’t looked at your idle strategy yet, the lap top I’m using is low battery and I’m not near power supply.

I will take another look soon if no-one else gets to it first.

Good luck.

I’ve noticed also, your Target After Start RPM Increase only lasts 4 seconds, this will cause engine to try to accelerate extra 200 rpm and then nothing extra after only 4 seconds. This should last much longer for cold engine.

When this 200 RPM surge happens it will get a big gulp of extra fuel from VE 1 (which is pig rich in the cells near idle)

You can change the values in the X and Y axis by right clicking there. You need longer time.

Also you are probably tempted to touch the throttle to keep alive and get even more fuel from cells in Throttle 20 - 30% range in VE 1.

VE Table is the foundation of good quality idle.

Until you get car to start and idle you should clear the VE 1 to 40% in the bottom left corner 2000RPM and 20% Throttle, Throttle inputs are not required if you have working IAC (Idle Air Control). A factory setup will usually increase RPM by close to double normal idle and slowly reduce over 1 or 2 minutes.

Yesterday I tried what you told me, and it imp

mini volvo v3.emub3 (65.3 KB)

roved in starting, it turns to start with explosions but it still goes up to 700 rpm and dies, as if the spark is cut off.

Great news. Now it would be useful to see the up-dated calibration, also capture a data log so we can see exactly ecu and engine behaviour while you are attempting to start it.

attach trigger scope file here, not screenshot but file itself, there is some shit happening for sure.

scope_2026813_188.emubscp3 (536 Bytes)

so thanks