Just received my EMU Black with the rb25 pnp adapter. I’m running an rb25det in an s13 (no A/C). Converted the CAS to an NZwiring trigger kit, r35 coils, updated the knock sensors to bosch 2 wire, and have swapped to DBW with a bosch throttle body and 350z pedal assembly and TPS, no MAF and will be running speed density.
I had a question for anyone experienced with a similar setup. I’ve seen stuff for haltech and linkecu with setup but not for EMU Black. As for the trigger setup, going off NZwiring setup using linkecu as an example its completely different. Does anyone know the settings needed to get it close and then I can mess with the offset to set the base timing?
DBW wiring, I’ve found examples again for haltech but nothing for EMU Black, everyone seems to use different descriptions for the pins. Anyone have a basic diagram for that?
I have the Base Map downloaded from the website but I need to change a few things obviously. It also comes up with a lot of errors when I load it into the software. I want it get it running and idling nice before contacting the tuner and setting up an appointment. I can ask them for a base map I’m sure but wanted to try setting it up myself first, just not sure of the trigger setup and the DBW wiring.
This is from a classic but the numbers should work out to pretty much the same if installed correctly. The NZ kit sensor is VR, so polarity will shift the trigger angle.
You need to verify with a timing light that what the ECU thinks is 0* is mechanically 0 degrees. Lock the ignition timing to 0, crank the engine with the coils and injectors unplugged and verify its within a few degrees. once it’s idling you can correct that last few degree’s to be bang on. Your tuner of choice should do this on dyno day as well.
pinouts are all the same regardless of size
TPS input on the Black goes to the PEDAL main sensor
Pedal sensor 2 goes to any analog input on the Black and gets assigned in software.
DBW TB TPS 1 & 2 go to any analog input on the Black and get assigned in software
V2 has a bunch of options for the plausible check (pedal sensor 2), 350z pedal is ‘second pot voltage is 1/2 of first’
DBW takes up 3 analog inputs on the Black.
5V goes to either 5v pin, same for sensor ground
M+ and M- go to H bridge 1A and 1B. you can reverse this in software so don’t sweat the polarity.
You need to have everything wired correctly and working before you can successfully do an DBW auto calibration (very common issue). Using the graph log check the pedal sensors, tps position and error channels are good. Move the TB by hand and do the same for the throttle’s sensors.
It should move the blade when the checkbox for ‘disable when no rpm’ is unchecked.
You will want to do an auto cal and leave the rest up to the tuner.
Thank you sir, I just found the nzwiring guide in the base maps but your info is a little different, I’ll go with the settings you recommended. You want to shoot for 10 degrees of timing with the light correct? That DBW write up is just what I needed
Throttle Body:
Pin 5 and 6 on the TB go to any analog input on black.
Pin 1 and 4 on TB to H-Bridge 1A and 1B
Pin 2 to sensor ground on black
Pin 3 to 5v on black
TPS (Pedal)
Pin 5 to TPS input on black
Pin 2 to any analog input on black
Pin 4 or 6 (not both) to 5v black
Pin 1 or 3 to sensor ground on black
Shielded wire correct?
I was going off this link example before and got a little confused. Mostly used for pedal sensor pinout. Not using the VQ throttle body so obviously those pins are different.
TPS (Pedal)
Pin 5 to TPS input on black
Pin 2 to any analog input on black
Pin 4 AND 6 (not both) to 5v black
Pin 1 AND 3 to sensor ground on black
Link diagram is correct for Pedal (TB as stated the pinout is different)
Can you link me the NZ wiring guide? at one point they were using my settings for Classic lol
If you lock the timing at 10* then match the mark on the balancer to the 10* timing mark. I usually do 0 as its easier to understand, but not every vehicle has marks at (Nissan typically does though)
And interesting. With the ignition output offset, that probably works out to the same. I always favour trigger settings with a 0 offset, its simpler and I believe the Injector outputs are not correct the way they have it.
I also avoid using pull downs with VR unless problems arise during tuning.
car will probably start with either settings, get base timing checked with a timing light and pass on the info to your tuner.
Sounds good to me, thank for all your help. Ignition outputs for what I attached off ecumaster base maps section looks correct based on how they have the pnp wired up, your ignition outputs are different than how they have the pnp wired up.
Shield gets terminated to sensor ground or power ground? Ive seen it both ways. Have you used the pnp adapter for the black and the rb? I had a couple questions about the pins they used. Both H bridges are used they way that have it set up. The fuel pump was used for one, CEL for one, and tach out for another. Not sure if those need to be on H bridge, I wanted to change the tach to the AUX 4/tach output and the CEL to a different output if possible and that would free up the H Bridge outputs for the DBW RB25 PNP adapter diagram.pdf (125.7 KB)
The ignition output offset and the trigger settings do need to match in order for the engine to be timed correctly. Again verify with a timing light and you’ll know pretty quickly.
I have used many of their PNP’s and I never understood the choice in output usage lol. They vary a lot and do stuff like use the H Bridges when not necessary. Perhaps it has to do with the PCB design but still seems like something they could overcome.
In those chassis’ they can be on the Aux outputs.
Tach should always be Aux 4 since it has a 12V pull up.
