I have a 190e 2.6 m103 with trigger wheel machined and welded onto the crankshaft pulley. Its all lined up correctly with a custom bracket off the oil pan bolts. I set the wheel to line up exactly as the emu manual shows. I’m fine up until 4500-5000 rpm only when driving but people do very similar setups with no issues so I don’t think its a vibration issue. Scope detects good. I had to set my first tooth to either 3 and angle 30 or 0, 60 for the car to run decently. It should be tooth 9 though, I have gone through everything and am at the point where I don’t know what else to do. Anyone have any advice on this? I triple checked all the mounting before hand, it all corresponds directly to emu manual.
A lot of words, but so little information. What is a wheel diagram, VR, or Hall sensor? Are you checking the ECU sensors grounds and the sensor shield (if it’s a VR sensor). Can you provide a log of these situation?
and read all other topics in community search “Unexpected missing tooth“
VR sensor, shield is only grounded on the one side, ecu ground is good its only cam and crank sensor on ecu grounds. I’ve read and tried everything in the other forums/posts. I am unable to upload any files because it is a new account. I’ve pretty much come to the conclusion that its not wiring, not mechanical, and I doubt its sensors they are brand new bosch sensors. Which all that’s left is software. I’ll be pulling the wheel tomorrow to check that since everything else has been gone through multiple times. It only happens under boost 4500-5000rpms and it is possible to rev through it up to 6100 (6500 limit) but its very sputtery. I went over everything in my tune and saw no cuts or corrections of any sort or limits.
60-2 trigger wheel. I noticed i didn’t include that.
cam and crank sensor need to grounded and shielded on Sens GND, not ecu gnd and not to power gnd
Thats what i meant sensor gnd not ecu gnd, shield gnd is on its own chassis ground. Thats what ive read everywhere people were saying not to put it on sensor ground but it should be?
Ive done that boss. Resistors did nothing, added a .3mm spacer, machined the bracket spacers down a bit and measured it to .8mm, .7mm, .6mm, .5mm and none of them changed it. Its okay I’ll figure out eventually.
What about ur settings in thw SW?…What settings did u try?….Pullup/down/None…filter?…do u use V2 oder V3?
I was told not to use the pull down settings with vr, I have the emu classic so theres not many options software side. Really only see the sensitivity switch which I have set at 3500rpm and it doesnt change anything, cam i have set to 2500 where it stops sync or whatever the setting is, cant remember right now. Not 100% sure but I think im on v3?
10-20log.emulog (1.9 MB) here is a log from a short drive today, I was unable to rev it up past 4800 due to traffic and stuff. There is one error between 31-31:20. I also included a log from 10-12 which was before adding resistor, changing tune some, and adjusting heigh etc. so you can see the error and that I was able to rev it up to 6300rpm (rev limit set to 6500)
10-12.emulog (810.0 KB)
Here is a link to the current tune setup. Not sure if that is aloud or if anyone wants to look that deep into it. I’m going to get some new coils, build a new bracket for the vr sensor, and go from there. These coils have good spark and seem to be good so I am a bit iffy, brand new bkr7e’s gapped at .026 as well, I thought it was blowout originally but doubt that now.
You have a 60-2 trigger wheel welded on the crankshaft pulley?
I had a 36-1 on the front pulley, and now run a 60-2 Mercedes std later model flywheel on my Mercedes 104.980 1 tooth equates to 6 degees (60-2)
Yes we machined the lip of the pulley and wheel to mount it flush like a little dip on the wheel so it sat on it and welded a few beads around it so it would not warp. I have an m111 flywheel but I would prefer not to pull the transmission and install it plus I have a newer 722.6 or something there is no sensor mount so having to make a new one would be annoying too. I have that as final step if all else fails. I adjusted it a minute ago and I am now at first tooth 1 and angle 34 which lines up perfectly when ignition was locked using a timing light. I have scope files from a quick drive along with changing some other things on the tune like switching vr wires and putting it to rising instead of falling, it will not start if I switch it without flipping the wires.
I think its just vibrating at those higher rpms, if i am reading the scope correctly then thats the cause. I will do a different wheel and maybe mount it similar to te-motorsports setup instead of welded on the pulley and go from there.
My main thing was I wanted someone else’s insight on the software end before I do that so I know it isnt me just missing something.
Similar to you, I had to go front mount first, then pulled old autobox and went with 722.6.
From my struggles, I found that VR sensor needs to be falling edge, Checked with Amazon cheap scope, rear block mounted flywheel sensor needs to have a 4-5 mm spacer if using later flywheel. Tooth 1 60 deg trigger angle. Other items to note, need “inverted” setting as cam signal is around 400 deg or tooth 78 - 80 (on twin cam m104)
Worn timing chain can bring its own problems with sync and errors.